Kitty Fisher's

Kitty Fisher’s is a small, uniquely atmospheric bar and dining room in Shepherd Market, serving great drinks and award-winning food

Kitty Fishers

http://www.kittyfishers.com

Bitten&Written | Restaurant Review | Kitty Fisher's, Mayfair W1

Breathe.....Owned by a well connected triumvirate of Tom Mullion (founder of All Star Lanes), actor Oliver Milburn, and Tim Steel, the opening has had the rare blessing of having the self-generated buzz and sparkle that only a handful of openings are lucky enough to garner.

Alongside him is, an alumni of Pitt Cue, which is always a very, very good place to have garnered experience.The tiny louchely styled basement (a former Victorian bakery) has more than a touch of Byronic swagger going on: bristling with claret hued banquettes, original ovens intact and revealed as features, candlelight throwing conspiratorial shadows all over the shop � it's a bloody cute room, striking a film set pose, ready for historical ribaldry with plenty of thigh slapping.

(�6) � Lightly crumbed, deftly fried pucks, with an eye wideningly luminous green smear of a�oli to dip into � good enough to mop up with any remaining bits of bread.

You'll eat good beef here, either tightly focused wine list has the beltingly good value Bergerie de la Bastide white and red from the Languedoc, and is well worth getting stuck into at �15 a carafe.

The list gets 'spicy' quite quickly, soon leaping over �35, and if you're in the mood to spaff �89, you can do that on the wonderful Puligny-Montrachet from Sylvain Bzikot, which is a pleasure to see featured.A 'Bad Kitty' cocktail of sloe gin and Prosecco has featured on each visit here, made by the charming Oliver Milburn, and propped up at the teeny bar it 'takes the edge off' admirably.

Kitty Fisher's, restaurant review: Diners will feel like the cat that got ...

This tiny little venue, in the middle of Mayfair's Shepherd Market (famously a den of iniquity in the 18th century, and more recently…), has six tables upstairs and five seats at the bar – although as we perch while waiting for our table, it becomes clear that this prevents anyone getting around.

Kiloran, the brilliant, sole waitress, has taken control after a mix-up with tables and we're in the corner with a good view of everything and everyone.

The wood grill is the thing here at Kitty Fisher's and it displays its charms wonderfully (in the hands of Parry and, no doubt, his sous chef Chris Leach, late of the BBQ dons Pitt Cue Co) on humble leeks, here charred and served with goat's curd, brown butter and smoked almonds (£9).

Ruby red chunks of beef, with a rugged crust and little gobbets of smoky fat, the only real response to eating it is "wooffff".

Kitty Fisher's, 10 Shepherd Market, London W1, Tel: 020 3302 1661.

Review: How Kitty Fisher's became the hottest restaurant in town ...

Last Wednesday it was David Cameron’s turn to pop down to Shepherd’s Market, but this time was very much about the food, for a “date night” with the sumptuous Samantha – plus a couple of friends and an entourage of bodyguards.

We perched on bar stools crammed in at one end of the bar in the tiny dark, low ceilinged upstairs room.

Behind the bar and mixing up our Bad Kitty cocktails, an intoxicating blend of sloe gin and cava, was Oliver Milburn, the very actor who played Davies in the BBC film of Byron’s life.

Milburn is one of the three friends who own Kitty Fishers, and he has got the whole “consider yourself at home” thing down to a T, pouring drinks, taking orders and winning us over with his posh self deprecating charm.

At last, there’s a good, clean reason to visit Shepherd’s Market.

Kitty Fisher's, London W1, restaurant review - Telegraph

• Ceviche Old St, London EC1, restaurant review: 'it put me in a good mood' We had taleggio with London honey, ale and mustard on toast (£6.50) and I had three slim fingers of whipped cod’s roe on toast, covered in cress (£6), as pink and dainty as a Ritz cream tea, outrageously smooth, as salty as the sea.

This was the flavour mix that cropped up again on the potatoes, which I think was a bit rum – the menu isn’t long enough to bank on people not having had it already.

In an absolutely ideal world, there may have been a bit less toast.

• London's best new restaurant and bar openings The dish as a whole was effective, strong, tangy, sour flavours bouncing off one another, but its centrepiece was overshadowed.

Brown bread ice cream (£6) was imperfect: the principle is that crumbs of brown bread are caramelised and introduced as little flavour bombs into a vanilla ice cream base.

Grace Dent reviews Kitty Fisher's | London Evening Standard

Poor Kitty Fisher’s, currently London’s most clangtastic name-drop night out, has seen almost every foodie face through its doors in Shepherd Market.

Thus, Kitty Fisher’s opened last December, and via a combination of its many plus points — good food, strong wine list, its intimate olde-worlde charm — was quickly declared ‘the place to be’.

To Kitty Fisher’s credit, I see no difference in its charming, professional attitude to diners between my visits in pre-buzz December and Defcon 1 desirable level April.

In an age of macho superchef-affiliated, top-of-the-tower mega restaurants, or edgy comfort-free pop-up filling stops, Kitty Fisher’s tiptoed into the fold, delivering modern British with a Spanish twist and a neighbourhood-style, low-key elegance.

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Kitty Fishers, London W1 – restaurant review | Marina O'Loughlin ...

The restaurant calls itself a “wood grill”, and much of the cooking – from chunks of bread and the Catalans’ beloved calçots to carnal hunks of meat – comes with the kiss of smoke.

That bread, rough-hewn, striated from the grill and glossy with good oil, comes with whipped butter dusted with jet-black onion “ash”.

This kitchen has a remarkable ability to blacken without scorching, and they pull off the same trick in a memorable duck dish: the breast blushing pink and oozing juice, the confit leg boned and cut into a sophisticated square of intensely ducky meat and crisp skin; it comes with a pool of rhubarb puree and little barrels of the stalk, charred but still supremely fuchsia and sour-sweet.

Ingredient du jour calçots (also spotted at Lyle’s and Le Coq), a seasonal allium like a large, benevolent spring onion, are charred – obviously – and, instead of the more traditional salbitxada, come with meringue-shaped clouds of goat’s curd, the sultry, double-nuttiness of brown butter and toasted almonds, and a vivid puree of the vegetables’ green tops.

I’m also a fan of louche, slightly shady Shepherd Market, the only place to sustain the existence of an oddball Polish-Mexican restaurant called L’Autre.